How to Wire a Shed for Electricity | Residence (2023)

Spring is here and many homeowners are thinking about building storage sheds to store their yard and garden equipment. Many of the more experienced do-it-yourselfers will build their shed from scratch, while less knowledgeable DIYers will purchase a pre-built shed and assemble it on site.

Electrical outlet mounted on a peg

The only thing even prefab shed kits are missing is wiring for a light and a container or two. Wiring a small storage shed is not a major electrical project, but you will need to "pull" a permit and perform all required electrical inspections by the Authority Having Jurisdiction (AHJ.)

1. Purchase an electrical wiring license from the AHJ. Do not start this project until you have the wiring permit and put it in plain sight in the shed.

2. Plan the route of the underground feeder (UF) cable from the main service switch panel to the shed. Drive the layout stakes into the ground with the sledgehammer and join them with Mason's twine. This will keep your trench straight. Dig the trench at least 24 inches deep per National Electrical Code (NEC) Table 300-5.

3. Drill 1 1/4 inch holes where the wire will enter the shed and where it will enter the house. Plug these holes with lengths of 1-inch PVC conduit to protect the cable from damage. This is required by the NEC. Once the cable is installed, you will seal these lengths of conduit with spray foam to prevent moisture from entering the buildings.

4. Run the UF cable from the house to the shed. At the end of the house cut the wire long enough to reach the main service panel. Run the cable along the side of the floor joists or perpendicular to the floor joist by passing it through drilled holes. Drill 3/4-inch holes so that the near edge of the holes is at least 1 1/4 inches from the near edge of the floor joist. Do not install the cable to the service panel yet.

5. At the end of the cable, attach the 4-inch square junction box as close to the entry point as possible. Enter the UF cable into the junction box at least 6 inches per NEC requirements. Place the receiving devices evenly around the shed. For a 12-foot by 14-foot shed, place the first 6 feet from the door and the remaining containers at 12-foot intervals. Since this is a shed, place them 48 inches above the floor.

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6. Place the device box for the light switch 48 inches above the floor opposite the hinged side of the door. Place the lighting outlet box as close to the center of the ceiling as possible.

7. Stroke lengths 12/2 w/Gr. ROMEX® from the junction box to the first receiver box. Pass sections of ROMEX® between each of the receiving device boxes. Place the ends of the wires at least 6 inches into the boxes.

8. Run lengths of ROMEX® from the junction box to the switch device box and form the switch to the lighting outlet box.

9. In all boxes, remove the outer sheath of the wire using the razor knife being careful not to damage the insulation on the individual wires. Strip 1 inch of insulation with the wire strippers from the ends of the insulated conductors.

10. Complete all connections in the junction box. Hold the bare ends of all the black wires side by side and twist them tightly together in a clockwise direction using the Lineman's pliers. After twisting the wires together, screw on a wire nut. Inspect to make sure no bare copper is visible outside the wire nut. If necessary, remove the wire nut and cut the twist until no bare copper is visible outside the wire nut. Repeat for the white wire.

11. Connect the bare copper ground wire with a 6-inch bare copper pigtail. Bond; connect the attached ground wires to the metal box with the free end of the pigtail. Make a loop in the end of the braid with the needle nose pliers and place it clockwise under the green ground screw of the box. Do not cover this box until after the hard check.

12. Loop the ends of all other stripped insulated wires for the receptacles and the switch. On all appliance boxes make two pigtail joints with the bare ground wires and connect one of the pigtails to the box ground screws.

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13. Connect each of the connectors as follows. Connect the black wires to the brass screws, the white wires to the silver screws, and the bare ground pins to the green ground screws. Do not place containers in boxes until after hard inspection.

14. Connect both black wires in the switch box to the brass screws on the switch. Connect the two white wires together and connect the bare ground wires to the box and switch just as you did for the receptacles. Leave the switch hanging by the wires until the first inspection.

15. Turn off the main switch and remove the cover on the service panel. Install the GFCI breaker. Depending on your panel, this switch may simply snap into place, or it may be attached to the busbars with a screw. Unroll the switch's white hook and secure the stripped end under a compression screw to the panel's neutral bar.

16. Place the cable on the panel. Connect the black circuit wire to the brass screw on the switch and connect the white circuit wire to the silver screw on the switch. Connect the bare copper ground wire to the panel ground bar. With the new switch in the off position, turn on the main switch. Do not close the panel.

17. Call for the preliminary inspection.

18. Place the containers and place them inside the boxes. Install the cover plates. Install the fixture by securing it to the box and connecting the white, black and ground wires together. Call for final inspection.